It's become a Watches & Wonders tradition: Ben Clymer sits down with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmidt to walk through the brand's latest releases from this year's show.

This year, that means the two new 36mm Saxonia Annual Calendars and the Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen. Schmidt walks through each, and the conversation touches on a broader thread running through Lange's recent work—a push toward smaller, more wearable proportions, following last year's 1815 in 34mm.

On the 36mm Saxonias, Schmidt explains the thinking: "The intention was always to go as small as possible, but there were two elements that we wouldn't sacrifice to get smaller or thinner. One is legibility, and the other is robustness."

The Lange 1 updates are subtle but deliberate—"small changes, but important changes," as Schmidt puts it. The two discuss what those differences actually are and how they add up, with Schmidt drawing on the brand's long view: "We've learned a lot in the last 20 years about case sizes and how to make watches sit comfortably on the wrist." Schmidt also shares some insight into the biggest challenge the team faced on the dial.

For the full video, click here.

What We Know

Today, Zenith introduces a new "Double Signed" program for its Calibre 135-powered G.F.J. collection, and its first entry in this series is a collaboration with a Japanese independent that might not require all that much introduction around these parts—Naoya Hida.

The evolution of the G.F.J. line has not taken all that long, with its origins starting in 2022 with the Zenith Caliber 135 Observatoire Limited Edition, where ten Calibre 135 movements from the 50s were restored by Kari Voutilainen and introduced in watches done as a triple collaboration between Zenith, Voutilainen, and auction house Phillips. Just three years later, the Calibre 135 was revived as a modern caliber for a line called the G.F.J. (after Zenith's founder Georges Favre Jacot). In just a little over a year, we've seen three small runs of this watch introduced in different stone-dial and metal combinations—platinum with a lapis lazuli dial, tantalum with an onyx dial, and an upcoming yellow-gold GFJ with a bloodstone dial.

In the meantime, this new Double Signed concept with Naoya Hida takes the G.F.J. in a very different visual direction. The hefty 39.15mm platinum case, with a thickness of 10.5mm and a compact lug-to-lug of 45.75mm, remains the same as other G.F.J. models. But that dial is unabashedly Naoya Hida, constructed out of solid silver with the distinctive hand engraving coming from the hand of master engraver Keisuke Kano, the man responsible for the hand engraving across all of Hida-san's other creations. On these dials, the 3, 9, and 12 markings are hand-engraved. The engraved markings are filled with blue Japanese Urushi lacquer, complementing the heat-blued seconds hand on the subdial at 6 o'clock. The hour and minute hands, in the soft, rounded look taken from the Japanese brand's Type 2 design, are machined out of solid gold.

Turn the case around, and the back shows off the Calibre 135, with the large balance wheel beating away at 2.5Hz with a Breguet overcoil, and decoration consisting of Geneva striping and anglage done by hand. The modern revival of the movement sports a hacking mechanism as well as a contemporary 72-hour power reserve, and the caliber is COSC-certified and regulated to +/- 2 seconds a day.

Adding a further Japanese touch to this double-signed watch is the trio of straps it is delivered with. It wouldn't be surprising that the owners of these watches might also share an affinity for Japanese denim, so for those enthusiasts, one strap is made from indigo-dyed Denim from the Kahihara Denim mill in Fukuyama. Another strap is made in Kyoto from Wagyu leather, and finally, a blue strap with a unique lacquered, pebbled texture is made from Himeji Kurozan leather.

The G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. is priced at $75,000 and is limited to 10 numbered pieces.

What We Think

This watch is quite a surprising collaboration, bridging a brand within the giant conglomerate that is LVMH with a small independent from Japan. The spirit of the project, to me, is quite fun, as it feels like a bringing together of two worlds that never would have quite fit together in conversations before. Thus, as a collaboration, I actually think this makes quite a bit of sense for both parties. The team of Naoya Hida & Co. gets a little bit more of a spotlight through a much larger mainstream brand, and Zenith gets to be discussed within the conversations of die-hard independent collectors. A win-win, it seems.

From a design perspective, I've always found Hida-san's Type 2A to be my favorite design from the brand, and so naturally, I have an affinity towards this new release. There's something about the hands that work so well with the silver dial here, and for those who have complained in the past about the movements behind the watches of Naoya Hida & Co., the combination of dial aesthetics from the brand and a legitimately interesting time-only movement from Zenith might hit that sweet spot.

The $75,000 price is eye-wateringly high, given that last year's 160-piece platinum edition with a stone dial was priced at $49,900. I mean, with that money, you could just buy that platinum G.F.J. and a Type 2C-2, and be about even after tax. Though the price tag is sky-high, I suppose it's not necessarily surprising given that neither the G.F.J. nor any watch from Naoya Hida has ever been a value proposition. They're certainly both poised as watches for collectors with everything, and this is certainly a maximalist take that is designed to appeal to that very customer base, where the value proposition doesn't quite cross the mind. From the news that all ten pieces are pre-sold, it seems like both brands need not worry.

What is interesting is that Zenith is announcing this collaboration not as a one-off, but as the first in a series of collaborations between the Swiss brand and "selected partners," which means that we'll see other interpretations soon enough. Whether or not the pricing will remain this ambitious, we'll have to see ( though I assume it will). But after a run of different stone dials, this Double Signed program is sure to mix things up.

The Basics

Brand: Zenith
Model: G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed With Naoya Hida & Co.
Reference Number: 40.1865-2.0135/01.C220

Diameter: 39.15mm
Thickness: 10.5mm
Case Material: Platinum
Dial Color: Solid silver
Indexes: Hand-engraved
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 5 atm
Strap/Bracelet: 3 straps: Himeji Kurozan leather, Wagyu leather from Kyoto, and Japanese non-stretch denim from Kaihara

The Movement

Caliber: Calibre 135
Functions: Hours, minutes, small-seconds
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 2.5Hz
Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC-certified

Pricing & Availability

Price: $75,000
Availability: Zenith boutiques
Limited Edition: Yes, 10 pieces

For more, click here.

Summer shows no signs of slowing down - it's been a busy few weeks in the watch industry. Secondary market prices have posted gains for three consecutive quarters, the first sustained climb since 2022, suggesting the market may finally be stabilizing after the post-pandemic boom and correction. In the auction world, a veteran executive has made a high-profile move from Phillips to Sotheby's, and Christie's has just claimed the record for the most expensive Cartier wristwatch ever sold - a title that changed hands twice in the span of a few weeks. Here's a round-up of some of the latest business stories from around the industry.

Secondary Market Watch Prices On A Winning Streak

After years of declines, prices on the secondary watch market are stabilizing and have posted gains of more than 1% for three consecutive quarters, according to an analyst report from Morgan Stanley and WatchCharts. An index of pre-owned watch prices compiled by WatchCharts rose 1.9% in the first three months of the year from the previous quarter, led by gains from a wide swath of brands including Longines, Patek Philippe, and Zenith, the data shows. 

It's the first time since 2022 that prices have climbed significantly for an extended period. The results suggest a broad recovery in secondary market values, driven by rising primary market prices, tariffs on watches entering the U.S., and increased confidence and interest in the pre-owned premium watch market. 

The gains were broad-based, with 25 of 35 tracked brands showing increases during the period from January to March. All of the major Swiss groups showed gains during the quarter, with Richemont brand prices rising 1.2%, led by Panerai, Vacheron Constantin, and Cartier. Swatch Group prices climbed 1.5%, including Longines, Blancpain, and Omega, and LVMH brands, including Zenith and TAG Heuer, rose. Among Swiss groups, Rolex, which also owns the Tudor brand, posted the biggest gains with a 1.7% increase.

Measured by year-over-year quarterly performance, Patek Philippe was the strongest brand performer, with prices on the secondary market up 17% from a year ago, while Tudor, Cartier, Grand Seiko, Rolex, and Omega rounded out the top five-performing brands.

Marks Jumps To Sotheby’s

Sotheby's is bolstering its watches division by adding industry veteran James Marks to the newly created position of Global Head of Private Sales & Retail, Watches. Marks, who was previously with Phillips for six years, serving as deputy chairman of watches and international head of Phillips Perpetual, will remain based in Geneva, Sotheby's says. The former investment banker, who also served as the CEO of Biver Watches from 2024 until last year, will oversee Sotheby's expansion in watches with a focus on scaling its fixed-price and private sales offering," Sotheby's says.

Public auction results at the major houses have been strong this year, with record sales recorded at Sotheby's, Christie's, and Phillips. Yet all three have been increasing private sales and transactions through retail channels such as the Phillips Perpetual platform. Auction house executives, in private conversations, have said there is a growing client base of buyers and sellers that prefers to transact privately and keep sale prices out of public view.

Marks' arrival heralds the latest in a series of recent changes at Sotheby's watch division, which saw Geoff Hess named global head of watches and Sam Hines return to the auction house as chairman of watches in 2024.

Christie’s Beats Cartier Watch Record Set Just Weeks Before With $2 Million Crash

Christie's snatched the title of selling the most expensive Cartier wristwatch at auction, with a rare 18K gold Cartier "London Crash" from 1990 that fetched $2,024,956 at Christie's Geneva Important Watches sale in May. The watch, with case no. 80298 and London hallmarks for 1990, beat out the previous record holder, another Cartier Crash, this one from 1987, that sold for about $1.99 million through Sotheby's in Hong Kong just a few weeks before.

"Cartier Crash wristwatches that were made before 1991 are extremely special, and the market has changed," Remi Guillemin, Christie's head of watches for the Americas and Europe, says in an interview following the sale. "The market really appreciates today things that are artisanal, and this is what this watch is really about," he adds.

EveryWatch Starts Sales Advisory Service

Global watch and auction data platform EveryWatch is launching a watch-selling advisory service. "Selling a luxury watch privately is harder than it should be," says Giovanni Prigigallo, EveryWatch co-founder. EveryWatch says sellers will be advised on the best asking price, based on the company's proprietary data, and on whether to sell a watch privately or at auction to achieve the best possible result. 

The company, whose investors include noted collector and author Auro Montanari (aka John Goldberger on Instagram), says sellers won't be charged fees for the service, as they will be matched with pre-vetted dealers and potential buyers who pay a fixed platform fee upon successful completion of a transaction.

What We Know

The last time I covered something from Formex was over a year ago, when the brand released a highly finished, full-ceramic sports watch, complete with a ceramic bracelet and even a ceramic micro-adjust clasp, at an unrivaled price point. Today, the brand continues its upmarket trend with a brand-new watch design called the Aria.

The Aria takes the form of a broad, integrated-bracelet design in full grade 5 titanium. The 40mm case feels broader than normal, thanks to an impressively thin case height of 6.9mm, even though the lug-to-lug is still quite reasonable at 45.45mm. While the silhouette gives a smooth look, there's quite a bit of contrasting finishing going on here, with brushing of the titanium case and bracelet links done entirely by hand. Though the styling certainly leans towards its identity as a bold sports watch, there's a lot of subtlety in the design, for example, with the individual bracelet links being slightly curved or the extra dimensionality of the layer of titanium peeking out from each link's milled-out spaces. The clasp includes Formex's proprietary micro-adjust system, which provides extra space on both sides of the bracelet by pulling or pushing each side.

There are three dials for the Aria: "Selva Green," "Ardesia Grey," and "Denso Blue." All three have a certain muted look to the hue, matching the slightly darker nature of titanium. Dimensionality is achieved through contrasting indices in rose-gold coloring, set on applied raised platforms, with a subtle radial line extending to each on the dial surface. A closer look reveals that the dial base itself is also curved, giving another subtle touch to the overall design.

Inside the watch is the brand's first departure from more standard Sellita-based calibers, with an exclusive COSC-certified Caliber FX01 produced through Horage. The watch's thinness is thanks to the microrotor construction (with the caliber a mere 2.9mm thick). Rafael Granito, the CEO of Formex, tells me that the tungsten microrotor actually gives the watch one of the most efficient winding systems in the market—about one hour of wear can yield ten hours of power in the mainspring, adding to the total of 72 hours of power reserve. 

The FX01 features a silicon regulating system, from the hairspring to the escape wheel and pallet fork, but the most interesting part to me is the flexible geartrain pinion, which eliminates any free play between the gear teeth and thus allows for a much more responsive and precise feeling when setting the time through the crown. The movement bridges are plated in galvanic black gold, with grained textures executed by laser engraving and hand-brushed beveling.

Granito tells me that the brand has secured 100 movements for the Aria's debut, meaning total production across the three dial colors will be limited to this quantity during this introductory phase. Quantity is not limited between the colorways, but total production will be capped at 100 pieces. The "founders edition" of this Formex Aria Manufacture Chronometer is priced at $7,900.

What We Think

Like I said in my review of the Essence Ceramica last year, this new watch from Formex is certainly an ambitious endeavor, and the design continues to exhibit the brand's curious duality. On the one hand, the finishing on this case and bracelet in grade 5 titanium really feels unparalleled for the price point. In person, this watch feels great, and though it wears quite broad thanks to the ratio of diameter to case height, it wraps around the wrist quite nicely and is extremely light thanks to the choice of metal. And the movement, though very strong technically, is, of course, not necessarily new, as it's based on Horage's pre-existing K2 architecture. Between the well-finished grade 5 titanium construction and the departure from Sellita-based movements, the rationale for the near-eight-thousand-dollar price point becomes a bit clearer. There's not really a full-titanium microrotor sports watch in this segment, certainly not one with this feature set, construction, or finishing.

On the other hand, it's priced squarely in a bracket that opens up many possibilities across the market, especially for those looking for brands with a lot more heritage. So the question is, who is this watch for? It'll be hard to imagine even the nerdiest of watch nerds picking this over a titanium Spring Drive Grand Seiko, in my opinion. I ask Granito this, and he offers an alternative perspective, one that I think is fair given the success of Formex's growth over the years through its e-commerce platform and retail network. He tells me that watches like these are for those who might be a little less heritage-minded and more technically minded, with many of the brand's customers wanting something that feels well-built, without caring about what the name on the dial might be. And for the brand, something like the Aria serves as a continued demonstration of what Formex's manufacturing capabilities can achieve, which is why I've always found myself curious about what the brand is up to. 

The Basics

Brand: Formex
Model: Aria Manufacture Chronometer
Reference Number: 0513.1.5033 (Denso Blue); 0513.1.5103 (Selva Green); 0513.1.5133 (Ardesia Grey)

Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 6.9mm
Case Material: Grade 5 titanium
Dial Color: Denso Blue; Selva Green; Ardesia Grey
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Yes, Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Grade 5 titanium bracelet with Formex's patented micro-adjust system, and screwed-in links

The Movement

Caliber: Manufacture Caliber FX01 by Horage
Functions: Hours, minutes, small-seconds
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 2.9mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Automatic micro-rotor
Frequency: 25,200 VpH (3.5Hz)
Jewels: 25
Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC-certified -4/+6 seconds a day
Additional Details: Silicon hairspring, escape wheel, and pallet fork; flexible geartrain pinion

Pricing & Availability

Price: $7,900
Availability: Pre-Order period from May-June 2026
Limited Edition: Yes, 100 individually numbered pieces across all three colors

For more, click here.

What We Know

Every year on June 1, Oris celebrates the founding of its brand by releasing watches named after its hometown. This time, they're doing so with 250 numbered pieces based on the brand's new Artelier watch. The new version features small seconds, a 120-hour power reserve, the Caliber 401 movement, and an interesting retro-futuristic style.

The new Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 has a stainless steel case measuring 39.5mm by 11.1mm, a 45.5mm lug-to-lug, and 30m water resistance. The dial is light grey with a subtle fumé effect from its shape, with a brighter subsidiary seconds dial in a mirror finish and a small red seconds hand. That silver, domed dial and claw-style hour markers make the watch feel a bit like a throwback to the late 1960s, but with modern specifications. The hour and minute hands have Super-LumiNova.

As a bonus, the movement (while not COSC-certified) has an accuracy of 3/+5 seconds per day and is highly anti-magnetic. It's also automatic winding. The caseback uses a special laser treatment that engraves the Oris Bear, features the words "Hölstein Edition 2026," and produces a mirror-like, iridescent rainbow finish. To steal the description from one of the greatest haircuts known to man, it's business in the front and party in the back. The watch retails for CHF 3,800.

What We Think

Oris has been doing these limited editions, as far as I can tell, since 2020, and each one has been anything but traditional. Obviously, the Oris bear often plays a prominent role, and the psychedelic approach on the caseback is a lot of fun. Looking back on the last few LEs, this one is probably the one that can be worn in the widest range of situations, and it's a good chance to showcase the brand's new model line. With only 250 pieces, it's a good opportunity for the brand to get funky like this without the stress of selling a few thousand.

The Basics

Brand: Oris
Model: Hölstein Edition 2026
Diameter: 39.5mm
Thickness: 11.1mm
Case Material: Multi-piece stainless steel
Dial Color: Light grey, small seconds, counter with a mirror finish, small seconds hand in red
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Grey suede leather strap with butterfly clasp

The Movement

Caliber: Oris Caliber 401
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Power Reserve: 120 hours
Winding: Automatic

Pricing & Availability

Price: CHF 3'800
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: 250 pieces, numbered 001/250

For more, click here.

What We Know

Big, bold, and unapologetically brash, the Royal Oak Offshore has never been the watch for everyone. But with three fresh colorways for 42mm chronographs in steel and titanium, and a triumvirate of brand-new 37mm models in titanium and pink gold, the vaunted watchmaker from Le Brassus is giving us a few more reasons to consider its dedicated diver. 

There are three new 42mm models in three new color combinations, all featuring luminescent white 'bathtub' style hands, Arabic numeral hour markers in 18 carat gold, a flyback chronograph with hour, minute, and second counters, and a tachymeter scale rehaut inner bezel and date window at 3 o'clock.

First up, the only new titanium model at this size, it features a dark grey méga tapisserie dial with dark grey and silver-toned counters with yellow and turquoise accents. The Arabic numeral hour markers are turquoise while the yellow chronograph hand matches the counter hands at 9 and 12 o'clock with a white seconds hand at 6 o'clock.

Sections of the tachymeter scale are printed in yellow and white, while the AP logo in white sits just left of the date window. The silver hour and minute chronograph counters are accented in turquoise and grey. The case is 15.3mm thick and features a sapphire open caseback, a black-rubber and titanium screw-down crown with contrasting yellow and black rubber push pieces, and boasts water resistance of 100 meters. 

The new titanium Offshore chronograph comes on an interchangeable dark grey textured calfskin leather strap with turquoise stitching and a titanium pin buckle. It's priced at $42,500.

Two new steel models are also debuting, highlighting orange or pink accents on the latest iteration of the Offshore, originally designed by Emmanuel Gueit in 1993. The orange-accented model has a light grey méga tapisserie dial with dark grey and orange-accented chronograph counters and tachymeter scale markings on the rehaut. 

The 18-karat lume-filled hour markers appear white and glow green at night. The chronograph hand and counter hands are in orange, with the silver-toned seconds counter featuring a black hand. The top push piece is made of orange rubber, and the black calfskin-textured strap features orange stitching and a steel buckle.

The other new steel model features a black méga tapisserie dial with pink accents, including a pink chronograph seconds hand and pink markings on the chronograph counters, the tachymeter scale, and the strap stitching. Both the steel Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph models feature sapphire casebacks, are water-resistant to 100 meters, and are priced at $42,500, the same as the titanium model, according to AP's U.S. website. 

All three feature the in-house Audemars Piguet caliber 4404  integrated flyback chronograph movement. With a column-wheel and a 22-karat pink gold oscillating weight, it's the same movement featured on existing Royal Oak Offshore chronographs in this size. 

While the 42mm chronograph models represent fresh color schemes on existing model designs, the 37mm Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph models debuting use the new(ish) in-house caliber 6401 that debuted in the 38mm Royal Oak models earlier this year, which TanTan wrote about here. Two of the new models are housed in titanium, also a first for the Offshore at this size. 

Let's start with the one that many of the diminutive-wristed among us will be excited to see in person: the titanium-cased model with a matching crown and pushers, a smooth bezel, a turquoise dial, and a matching rubber strap. 

With gold Arabic numeral hour markers, matching lume-filled white 'bathtub' hands, the date moved to  6 0'clock, and sans tachymeter scan on the turquoise inner bezel, and with the three counters in the same color, this is a toned-down Offshore - that is, if one considers the turquoise color subtle. The case is 11.5mm thick, has an open sapphire caseback, and offers 50mm of water resistance. The watch is priced at $41,100 on the Audemars Piguet U.S. website. 

There's another new titanium version at 37mm with a steel bezel set with 32 brilliant-cut diamonds (1 carat) and a pink tapisserie dial that follows the same layout as the turquoise version. The price rises to $45,900 for the diamond-set bezel titanium version that has the same specs as the turquoise model. 

Finally, there is an 18-karat pink gold case version featuring a gold bezel also set with 32 brilliant-cut diamonds (1 carat). The dial is light blue tapisserie, with matching counters, ringed by pink gold. The Arabic numerals, hour markers, and hands are all pink gold, and the hands feature light blue colored luminescent material. With a matching light-blue rubber strap and the same 6401 chronograph movement and water resistance as the other 37mm models, the pink-gold version is priced at $68,500. 

What We Think

The new colorways on the 42mm Offshore models look and feel quite modern and au courant and round out the offerings at that size quite nicely. I've always been a sucker for orange accents on a watch and expect that's the one I'd go for if I were in the market for a luxury diver. Still, I must admit that the combination of turquoise, grey, and yellow on the titanium model, while quite busy, is possibly the most fetching of the three.

As for the 37mm sizes, I'm super excited to see the turquoise model in person and see how it wears and feels. Audemars Piguet's CEO, Ilaria Resta, has said that adding more women to Audemars Piguet's client base, from current levels of around 20% to 25% to as much as 45% by 2030, is a significant priority. With these chronograph models, particularly at the 37mm size, there's plenty of potential to get closer to that goal. At the same time, the introduction of the six new models in total to the Offshore line reminds us all of the potential of the model group that was designed in an era - the late 1980s and early 1990s - that is certainly back in focus and informing design decisions among the style-conscious. 

The Basics

Brand: Audemars Piguet
Model: Royal Oak Offshore Self-Winding Chronograph, 42mm and 37mm
Reference Number: 26238ST.OO.A001VE.02, 26238TI.OO.A001VE.01, 26238ST.OO.A001VE.01, 26430TI.OO.A358CA.01, 26430IS.ZZ.A514CA.01, 26430OR.ZZ.A352CA.01

Diameter: 42mm, 37mm
Thickness: 15.3mm, 11.5mm
Case Material: steel, titanium, pink gold
Dial Color: Dark grey, black, silver-toned, turquoise, pink, light blue
Indexes: Applied, 18K gold
Lume: Yes, hands and indexes
Water Resistance: 100m, 50m
Strap/Bracelet: Interchangeable calfskin, rubber

The Movement

Caliber: 4404, 6401
Functions: Flyback chronograph (42mm) chronograph hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Diameter: 32mm, 27mm
Thickness: 8mm, 5.7mm
Power Reserve: 70 hours, 55 hours
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4Hz)
Jewels: 40, 44
Chronometer Certified:  No

Pricing & Availability

Price: $42,500 (all 42mm), $41,100 (37mm turquoise dial), $45,900 (37mm diamond-set bezel titanium), $68,500 (37mm pink gold)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No

For more, click here.

As the United States of America celebrates 250 years since the signing of the Declaration of Independence this year, reflecting on two and a half centuries of history, Hamilton is also looking back on its past. Instead of the 1770s, however, the Swiss-based watch brand has drawn inspiration from the 1970s and has announced the release of the Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm, a virtually 1:1 recreation of the famed 36mm Hamilton FAPD-5101 Type 1 created as a navigator's watch for the U.S. Air Force in the 1970s.

The FAPD-5101 Type 1 variant was produced in September of 1970 and was intended for use by U.S. Air Force personnel during the Vietnam War as a navigator's watch. While Hamilton also produced many other watches for the U.S. Military throughout the 20th Century, this particular piece was unique in that it was slightly larger and therefore more legible than its contemporaries. Due to its modern proportions and rarity, it remains highly prized among vintage watch collectors today.

Hamilton's American Roots

The launch of the watch was celebrated in Hamilton's ancestral home of Lancaster, Pennsylvania, just ahead of Memorial Day Weekend. Hamilton was founded in 1892 in Lancaster, where a budding watch industry had been struggling for several years to get off the ground. Seeing the need and potential for high-quality watches in the booming railroad industry, a consortium of local entrepreneurs brought their business acumen to bear, creating what would become one of America's most successful watch companies. Though its factory was closed and production moved to Switzerland in 1969, the history of Hamilton is still clearly visible in Lancaster to this day, and is even experiencing a revival.

The building that once housed Hamilton's factory still stands, now a community of apartments and condos. While at first glance that may sound like a sad sentiment, where history has been paved over and forgotten, it couldn't be further from the truth. The clock towers of the old brick building still stand and function, with all manner of posters and plaques illuminating the watch manufacturer's history posted throughout. Residents of the building graciously give tours, proud to share the horological history of their home.

A few blocks away, in the heart of the Historic District on Duke Street, stands the flagship Hamilton Boutique. The store is housed in the old Bowman building, which had a previous life as a watchmaking school and later a jewelry store, until 2024, when Hamilton took over the space. Today, the boutique is a landmark, regularly opening its doors to the community for special events, such as the launch of the new Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm.

The Return of a Classic

The watch itself is about as faithful a re-edition as one could hope for. The case proportions are the same as is the dial layout. Hamilton even went so far as to use a vintage version of their logo, which was seen on an exceedingly rare civilian version of the watch from the same era. Naturally, there have been improvements and updates as well, such as the use of the caliber H-50 manual-winding movement (derived from the ETA C07.701), which features an 80-hour power reserve. While the stainless steel case isn't Parkerized as the vintage model was, it does have a nearly identical matte finish and 100m of water resistance.

The Khaki Mechanical 36mm is available in two variations – the standard version and the Khaki Field Mechanical 250 limited edition bundle, which features a special "Date APR 2026, 1 of 1,776" caseback engraving and comes with an additional leather strap and a folding carrying pouch. In either case, the watch will be produced only in 2026. Though, if we're being honest, it is hard to see a future where a watch this well-executed doesn't find its way back into regular production in some variation or another.

The combination of the 36mm case and the soft, OD green, plain-weave cotton NATO-style strap results in a watch that gets out of the way. That is to say, once you put it on and go about your day, you will quickly forget you're wearing the thing. But that's exactly what you want from a field (or in this case, a navigator's) watch. Like any other essential piece of kit, it must do its job so that you can get on with the business of doing yours. Everything you need, nothing you don't.

Speaking of the strap, it is really nice. The fabric is soft and comfortable, accented by tone-matched olive green leather accents. Fitting the 18mm lug width, it also underpins the watch's overall minimal presence on the wrist, which is kind of the whole point. Accessibly priced at $725, a watch like the Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm isn't meant to be a dramatic, statement-y standout. It's meant to be clean, classic, and unfussy, a pure distillation of everything a tool watch should be – simple and, well, pretty much perfect.

About the author

Troy Barmore (@troybarmore) is a US-based luxury watch, eyewear, and heritage goods specialist, journalist, and photographer based in New York City. Troy is a contributor to many horological outlets, including Hodinkee, Revolution Magazine, and Chrono24 Magazine.

Congrats on conquering another week, even if this one felt particularly expensive with the loss of Sonny Rollins. I know jazz is probably supremely uncool, but man oh man, if you've not had any experience listening to old Sonny stuff, pull up his classic The Bridge and dive on in (and, yes, his time out, alone, practicing sax on the Williamsburg Bridge, lent the album its title).

But you're not here for that sort of cultural enrichment. Let's get to the real stuff. Scorekeeping earlier picks, the Hamilton RAF from two weeks back sold for €1,600, which is a cheering result. Last week's Omega Marine Chronometer went for CHF 2,000, the Marvin "Ocean Chief" sold for $1,000, the Zenith 2000 for £3000 hammer (£3720 including fees), and Rare Bird's Jaeger-LeCoultre Étrier sold as well.

Strays

Here's a beautiful Zenith Respirator on its original Zenith-signed NSA bracelet for all you square-cased Ballers to start things off. The Dennison ALD Dual Time seemed to scratch an unsuspected itch for a lot of folks, and certainly there are excellent vintage examples of double-dialed watches, but if you happen to find yourself hooked on the idea that more=better regarding dials, boy oh boy is this 18k gold Chopard with its four separate dials for you (with, yes, four separate manual-wind movements, for the fidgeters among us). Girard Perregaux alarms look fantastic for eschewing the typical fourth hand for setting the alarm, and this example seems to be in excellent condition. Bonham's Hong Kong auction this week has quite a few delectable options, chief among them a Skipperera and this Audemars Piguet 25720BA Star Wheel. Finally, there's absolutely nothing not to love about this understated white-gold Vacheron 7390, a watch that looks both like nothing special and like something someone could wear every single day and probably never get tired of.

Universal Genève Polerouter Super

The Universal Genève Polerouter needs no introduction or hype here—you've read about the vintage versions (and perhaps have downloaded the app), and you've certainly read about the recent relaunch of the brand, which, of course, included new Polerouters. Obviously, there are not only many specific Polerouter references, but there are whole other subcategories, as well—specifically the Polerouter Sub (first in a super-compressor case, then a symmetric case with bezel, then the asymmetric case with bezel). The point is, a Polerouter is more than just lyre lugs and dauphine (or, if you're really lucky, broad arrow) hands.

While the Polerouter III presumably has fans, allow me to draw your attention to this two-tone Polerouter Super. If you've not seen these before, you might think it looks like a loutish, gym-bro cousin of the original Polerouter. Sure, it's still powered by the UG microrotor cal 69 movement, and it retains the trapezoidal date window (and if you're really far gone, you can note that UG, like Rolex, had open-9s on their date wheels). But that's really it in terms of familial similarity, and in place of the elegant, curvy grace of the originals, the Super sports a tougher silhouette with straight brushed lugs that all but declare it a sport watch.

Interestingly, the biggest change between standard Polerouters and Supers isn't even visible: introduced in 1965, the Super line followed the Sub and apparently had a depth rating of 300m (a fact that feels like it would've been prudent to advertise somewhere on the watch itself). The details of what makes this model so protected from water ingress involve old patents and a man named John Simon (about whom you can read more here).

This particular example has almost certainly had its crown replaced—the original correct one is huge and would've been gold—and the dial isn't perfect, but Supers also come up irregularly enough that they're worth calling out when they do appear. The case looks to be in fairly good shape, with evident brushing on the lugs, and unfortunately, despite asking for pictures of the movement and caseback, I never heard back from the auction house. I can't guess what this goes for—bid up to €160 at the time of writing; it'll go up on the 30th of May—but the last all-steel one I saw, which auctioned a few months ago, went for over $2,000.

Movado Artist Edition, The Bill Time

This watch—a Movado "Bill Time" designed by the artist Max Bill—feels right on the edge of being too much. Too loud, too colorful, too weird-looking. But then the thing about a watch being too anything is so tricky and loaded that it's hard to even know how to talk about it. Like, isn't a Rolex 116506 with a full pave dial also a bit much? Note "too much" isn't inherently a criticism—plenty of folks like Gwar, after all—but how does one even adjudicate? Or is there simply no way to address any of this objectively, and everything ultimately devolves into Justice Potter's I-know-it-when-I-see-it?

Max Bill, of course, had designed watches before this 1993 collab with Movado; his first designs were for Junghans in the 1960s. His past work makes this Movado all the more compelling, as you'd be hard-pressed to come up with something less kin to an industrially pure Junghans than this wild explosion of color. However, with a bit more digging, you'll discover Bill also collaborated with Omega in 1987, and that strangely bifurcated watch—almost mullet-like, with business in the front, party in the back—certainly gives hints at what he'd do with Movado.

Made in 1993 in an edition of 99, with a 44mm sterling silver octagonal case and matching bracelet, this watch is A Whole Lot (as in: those color bars in the bracelet are all enamel). The thing's so excessive and loud and specific it almost feels like a Hendrix song, something that's better to experience than attempt to describe. Still, it's not like it's messy or unclear: the dial's got twelve colors to align with the hour markers, and I presume we can all tell at a glance which hands are transmitting which data, regardless of the big silver blob at the center.

The question then is who this watch is for. I couldn't begin to guess, but I'd love to know who looks at this watch and immediately thinks, "Hell yes." Do you jam on incredibly colorful watches, of which fewer than 100 were made to begin with? Do you go rhapsodic over full-set specialty watches so esoteric they don't come to market often? Christie's auctioned one in 2005 that went for over $5,000, and Antiquorum sold one in 2015 for CHF 12,500. This is all to say: we'll all find out together when this watch, currently bidless and coming as a complete set with papers and case, auctions on June 4th.

Rolex Submariner Reference 16800

Writing about a Rolex Submariner anywhere, much less at Hodinkee, feels a bit like trying to write about Bob Dylan, or the Yankees, or Levi 501s. What more needs to be said about such a legend? Which is a bit of a drag, because when something becomes so culturally ingrained, it's oddly even harder to see and talk about. I can think of few watches written about, lusted after, and analyzed more than Rolex Submariners, and so it is with more than a little trepidation that I offer this Reference 16800 for your consideration this week.

A transitional reference, the Rolex 16800 is, for my money, the best vintage Rolex around. Introduced in the late 1970s as the successor to the 1680, the 16800 looked remarkably similar, and while the differences between the models were somewhat subtle, they also felt definitional. Specifically, the 16800 introduced a sapphire crystal, Rolex's first quickset date movement (cal 3035), a new water resistance rating up to 300 meters/1,000 feet, and a unidirectional click bezel. You'll note that, aside from new materials (ceramic bezel, 904L steel instead of the 316L of the 16800), a different case shape, and improved movements, the current Submariner Date, Reference 126610LN, sticks to the same template established by the 16800: water resistant to 300M, 120 click bezel, sapphire crystal.

Coming with its original box and Bucherer-signed Rolex spoon, this watch will be auctioned on the 31st. It is, yes, Just Another Rolex Sub, but the 16800 sure seems like one of the best options out there.

Rotary Compressor Diver

Best known for their Aquaplunge (and the various other iterations of that model from other companies), Rotary is a bit like Movado in that, while it didn't go under during the quartz crisis, it certainly spent a long time in the dreaded Mall Watch hell.

If you're in the mood for it, this week sees this Rotary super-compressor up for auction, though I can't be sure it's an actual ESPA-cased super-compressor, given it lacks the telltale cross-hatched crowns. However! This watch has a starting price of £350, currently has no bids for an auction that starts on the 30th, and it allows us a chance to attempt a minor resurrection of watches I've seen billed as bin watches in the past, i.e., watches that seem less designed and more assembled from whatever's available.

This Rotary, for instance, obviously looks quite familiar. The auction doesn't list this watch's size, but a safe bet is that it's 36mm, like most super compressors of that era. And that hour hand: you've seen that before, right? It's all but identical to the hour hand on an Aquastar 1701. The second hand, interestingly, is also almost identical to a Tradition compressor from the same time period (Tradition was the brand name Sears used for their in-house watches). The rest of the dial (aside from the badge) looks like so many other super-compressors of the time.

Generally, we praise watches that look like themselves, that are distinct, design-focused, thoughtful, and that's great, but the pull of a watch like this is that it's entirely common, almost anonymous in its way. This, I'd argue, is worth, if not celebrating, at least enjoying: there's something almost relieving about watches that feel casual, almost slapped together, made with whatever's on hand. It takes the pressure off, makes the whole thing feel less fussy.

Regardless, this thing looks just fine, and while it's nothing special, it's nonetheless a seemingly cool example of a mid-century model. And if the Rotary doesn't do it for you? How about this Mulco Escafandre with a silver dial instead?

Louis Vuitton Monterrey II "LV2"

A series of essays I'd like to read would be a full accounting, from watch people, about the models they initially didn't like or respond to. I don't mean the watches that elicited a bored meh; I'm talking about the stuff that led to a sort of immediate internal recoil.

I first came across the Louis Vuitton Monterey II "LV2" on Instagram, maybe six years ago, and the watch immediately led me to turn off my phone and head elsewhere. Just gross, the whole thing: crown on the top, faultlessly smooth pebble case, that weirdo dial, and those big, dumb hands (the best way to dislike something is blindly, foolishly). And then, like so many other things I disliked from the jump, I'd return to it, trying to piece together what I didn't like about it.

The simple truth was that I disliked the watch because it simply looked so different. While the watch isn't loud (like the Movado above), it's not trying to look like a recognizable watch. It is totally and completely itself. We are, of course, all allowed our own personal tastes, but it's the height of churlishness to dislike anything just because it looks so distinct.

However anyone feels about the LV Monterey hardly matters at this point: as Ms. Crawford noted in her coverage of the revival of the Monterey, the OG—both I (with world time, moonphase, date, and alarm) and II (alarm and date only)—has so ascended to a place in culture that it's unignorable, being worn on big-name wrists and leading to the model itself being relaunched (this time with everything done in house, instead of relying on IWC quartz movements and help with ceramic cases). This particular example appears to be in extraordinary shape, with only modest signs of wear, comes with the box and papers, and is available for $12,995 from Goldfingers Vintage. While that price seems extravagant, it's worth noting that Loupe This sold one in August of last year for $13,000.

At the June 2026 lecture of the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), independent watchmaker Roger W. Smith OBE will trace the remarkable story of the co-axial escapement from George Daniels' original invention in the early 1970s through to its continuing modern evolution. Beginning with Daniels' determination to address the fundamental limitations of the Swiss lever escapement, the talk explores the development of his early experimental pocket watches, together with the long and often difficult process of persuading a skeptical Swiss watch industry to adopt an entirely new escapement system.

Drawing on firsthand experience working alongside Daniels during the Millennium Watch project and the launch of the first Omega co-axial wristwatch in 1999, Smith will provide a rare personal insight into a pivotal moment in modern horological history. The second half of the presentation will examine the subsequent technical evolution of the escapement from 2005 onwards, including the development of the single-wheel co-axial and the changing philosophy behind escapement design — moving beyond pure chronometric performance towards long-term stability, durability, and extended service intervals.

Due to limited seating, tickets will be released according to this schedule:

Gold Members...............May 26 (12 PM ET)
Silver Members..............May 28 (12 PM ET)
Bronze Members............June 2 (12 PM ET)
General Public................June 4 (12 PM ET)

A dedicated email with a unique code will be sent to each membership tier. Limit two (2) RSVPs per member. Non-transferable.

About Roger W. Smith OBE

Roger W. Smith OBE is a master watchmaker and widely regarded as one of the leading practitioners of traditional horology working today. After studying at the Manchester School of Horology, Roger became the only apprentice to the late Dr. George Daniels CBE, working alongside him to develop the Millennium series and the industrialization of the co-axial escapement. Since establishing his own studio on the Isle of Man in 2001, Roger has remained the only watchmaker to fully execute the "Daniels Method," mastering the 32 individual skills required to build a timepiece from raw materials. 

His work is defined by a philosophy of "putting the making back into watchmaking," combining traditional hand-building techniques with cutting-edge technology to create just 15 to 20 pieces per year. A prolific innovator, he has spent the last two decades pioneering the super-efficient single-wheel version of the co-axial escapement, extending service intervals beyond industry standards whilst also continuing his research into long-term chronometric stability and durability in mechanical watchmaking. A recipient of the 2025 Gaïa Prize, Roger is also the founder and Chairman of the Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers, where he continues to advance the legacy of British horology.

Details

The June 11, 2026, HSNY lecture will take place at the General Society Library in Midtown Manhattan, located at 20 West 44th Street, New York, NY, 10036. Free tickets are required to attend. Doors open at 5:30 PM and the lecture begins at 6 PM. All HSNY lectures are free, open to the public, and video-recorded. Recorded lectures are made available to HSNY members immediately, and to the general public with a two-month delay.

Hodinkee is a sponsor of the Horological Society of New York.

What We Know

We've featured a lot of Albishorn on Hodinkee recently, and for good reason. It's a fan-favorite brand, and, as our former head of limited editions said, it's hard to find someone who knows how to handle the technical side of watches, the design side, and pricing, all so well. The new Type X-Graph is no exception. If you want more info on the design inspiration behind the brand, you can read one of my previous stories here. But while other launches trend more vintage, this one feels a bit more modern.

The Rolex "Zerograph" inspiration is obvious, with the slightly smaller dial and oversized bezel (that overhangs the case). This time, the dial pushes the look into modernity, with a semi-translucent fumé grey dial that lets you catch small glimpses of the skeletonized ALB04 M movement. But at the same time, Alibshorn was able to maintain the pebbled texture of some of their other dials. It's not a fully smoked sapphire like a Patek 5316 or a Lange Lumen, but at the price, it strikes a balance between creativity and affordability. Add the green-emission Super-LumiNova on the PVD-coated bi-directionally rotating steel bezel, and it's a cool monochrome finish.

You'll notice that the watch is a chronograph with a 30-minute counter at the lower left and running seconds at the right, but right above the logo is the chronograph running indicator. It switches from red while running to white when stopped. The design of this is patented as part of the brand's modifications to the Valjoux 7750 architecture, which turns it into the manually wound movement in this watch.

The watch is technically a "destro" model, with a crown at 10:30 and a large red pusher just below at 9:30. I've long since started to believe that this is actually the best for a chronograph if you're right-handed. Your thumb is stronger for using a pusher, so grabbing the case with your hand and using your thumb makes sense. The crown doesn't get in the way when wearing it.

The 316L stainless steel case measures 39mm by 12mm and has 100m of water resistance. The movement inside has a 65-hour power reserve and runs at 4 Hz. It's also COSC-certified.

We didn't cover it at launch, but one of the other new additions is a bracelet option. The watch comes with both a black and a taupe strap as standard at CHF 4,250, but for an extra CHF 450, you can get the "bamboo"-inspired bracelet with a deployant and two small hidden micro-adjustments. Albishorn is limiting production to 99 unnumbered pieces over the next three years, but it's not so much a true limited edition—the brand is small enough that they may never do 99 pieces of any one version anyway. It's more of a promise never to do more.

What We Think

There's no doubt that Albishorn's chronographs take someone with a particular sense of style and maybe creativity to appreciate and wear. With the vintage inspiration, it helps to be a bit educated on watchmaking history to get the references. As a standalone, they still work. But I like this version for being much more modern than past releases. The other thing I'll say is that I'm excited about the brand's future, with some new models in the works that I got to see as prototypes. They'll scratch a different itch than the chronographs, so if those are your deal, it's still worth picking them up.

The Basics

Brand: Albishorn
Model: Type X-Graph
Diameter: 39mm
Thickness: 12mm
Case Material: 316L stainless steel
Dial Color: Translucent polycarbonate dial with fumé finish and pebbled texture
Indexes: Printed
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap/Bracelet: Black and taupe leather straps; optional metal bracelet

The Movement

Caliber: Proprietary caliber ALB04 M
Functions: Hours, minutes, chronograph, running seconds, running indicator, stop seconds
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 5.7mm
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 4 Hz
Jewels: 21
Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC-certified
Additional Details: Skeletonized dial side; Box sapphire crystal with antireflective coating; Bidirectional rotating bezel in gunmetal PVD-coated stainless steel with engraved and lacquered figures and Super-LumiNova® indexes

Pricing & Availability

Price: CHF 4,250 (on strap) or CHF 4,700 (on bracelet)
Availability: On the brand's website, Friday, May 29, at 9 am EDT
Limited Edition: Limited to 99 pieces (unnumbered), produced over a period of three years

For more, click here.